Hey, Dave.... This is only done for my most sensitive clients, guys with the absolute lightest touch. Mostly fingerstyle guys, but I have done it on electrics, too.... I have one for sale if you want it...
I do it the hard way on new guitars.... I grind the frets down to the correct height of .025, which sometimes takes DAYS if it had medium jumbos (I'm a part timer, ya know). What takes forever is crowning the frets which have now been flattened out considerably.
I use a StewMac 3 cornered file, a couple reworked Swiss die sinker files, a StewMac sanding stick, and one of those stainless StewMac fingerboard guards. I radius first from the bass side, then turn the guitar around and radius it across the fret from the treble side. Then I use 3 different grits of sandpaper to blend it all together. As you well know, with a fingerboard guard which measures .010 thick, or blue masking tape (about .007 thick), that doesn't leave much room at all to produce a full radius when crowning. I seldom achieve a perfectly round fret crown, but it's pretty close.
Frankly, it's a cast iron b*tch to do, which is why I charge triple to do it. It uses up a lot of tool and supplies, a bunch of my epidermis and even part of my fingernails. My fingers hurt for a day or two after I'm done.
And then I string up the guitar to pitch, and leave it for a day to settle. For setup, I adjust the truss rod almost perfectly straight, and check it several times over a few hours until it has settled. As you know, the lower the action - the less wiggle room for mistakes. When I'm finally satisfied, then I capo it at the first fret and lower the bridge saddle as low as possible. I'm looking for stoopid low. I might have to shim it, but usually I can get it a taste lower even then. Then I pull the capo, and set the action at the nut - again stoopid low. And then, I let the guitar sit at tension for a couple hours and I check it periodically. IF the guitar needs it, I'll adjust the truss rod a smidge - and I mean barely. At around the 10th fret you MIGHT be able to slip a piece of folded paper (.008) between the treble E and the fret when the string is held at the first fret and last fret. Triple fold on the bass E (.012).
You want to know what stoopid low is, right? On the plain strings there's about .005 between the bottom of the string and the top of the first fret. About .012 on the wound strings, with maybe .015 on the E. At the bridge, the treble E is about .035 with each string getting a little more gap until the low E is about .055. Most cats can't even play it now without making it rattle - including yours truly. One of these guys can play SLIDE with it that low, and you'll never hear the slide hit the frets. He's a spook.
On used guitars, I pull the old frets, sand the fingerboard perfectly flat. I refret with the tiniest mandolin frets I can find on Amazon. They are about .037 tall to start. Not much meat to remove, but I still have to do the radius thing.
I can't remember if I posted these pics from another Taylor I did for the spook (I've done 4 jobs for him).
Note there is no tape inducing tension in the strings. Under the treble E, a penny is held upside down by string tension only. It's a nickel under the bass E. I figured gravity would pull them out....
https://imgur.com/aOdaWN4
https://imgur.com/PjEcmyL
https://imgur.com/XftcseF
https://imgur.com/oLzlb7Q
Most of the cats remove the truss rod cover after this mod. This is Kansas after all, and the least change in humidity or barometric pressure makes the action move a bit.
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. Just played that last night so it's in my head.